Carnal Flower, Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
Posted on December 10 2020
Coco Chanel argued that the secret to being irreplaceable is to always be different.
So did Frederic Malle. We take it from afar.
1948: Robert Piguet commissions Germaine Cellier to produce a tuberose perfume. Fracas is born, a fragrance, as its name suggests, noisy, exuberant, brash, which intends to definitively put the severity and global tragedy of the past few years behind it - and on how fashion responds to periods of crisis with invitations to dreams and luxury. just remember that Joy by Jean Patou, advertised as “le parfum plus cher du mond”, followed the great crisis of '29 and the dramatic collapse of Wall Street.
Fracas, however, was not simply a tuberose perfume but THE tuberose perfume: a point of reference for half a century. It is said that every time a perfume house asked for a tuberose, they started from there: “We want a Fracas, but greener”, “It would be nice to have a Fracas, but sweeter”, and so on.
Not Frederic Malle.
Founder of one of the most uncompromising Maison of all on quality and exclusivity of creations, he intends to market an original and revolutionary tuberose perfume.
Like Edmond Roudntitska, who to compose his own
Diorissimo had his lilies of the valley as a reference in the Cabris park, even Dominique Ropion, the nose to whom Monsieur Malle entrusts the task, is asked to make a clean sweep of the previous interpretations and to be inspired only and exclusively by the stunning smell that the flower offers in nature .
This was followed by 640 tests over a period of 18 long months, during which Frederic Malle, who at that time still lived in Paris, had the best tuberoses available weekly from the most renowned and historic florist in the city, Moulié-Savart, in order to always and constantly have the goal to be achieved under your nose.
Moreover, during his numerous travels to California (it is there, from nearby Mexico that the tuberose comes) the idea of accentuating the more solar and carnal aspects of the flower matures.
The result, ça va sans dire, is spectacular.
Carnal Flower is a fragrance of disruptive beauty: the narcotic notes of the flower, accompanied by euphoric and airy green notes, are the most classic and at the same time modern you can expect.
Perfectly multi-faceted and orchestrated, the fragrance sways between warm and sensual shades (Jasmine, Ylang Ylang) and fresh and sunny (Watermelon, Orange Blossom), while the musk cocktail on the bottom guarantees an exceptional hold on the skin.
Powerful yet sophisticated, luxurious yet nonchalant, it is a practically perfect perfume.
The reference tuberose of the 21st century.